From first thing in the morning ‘til late at night, in Italy the opportunities to indulge in delicious sweet and savory Mediterranean morsels are never ending!
Breakfast?
Insisting that breakfast is the most important meal of the day will fall on deaf ears in a country where the vast majority of people set off for work (and even school) on an empty stomach.
When Italians do have breakfast, it’s usually a pretty meager and, uncharacteristically, hasty affair: consisting of something sweet and sticky washed down with a shot of espresso coffee or a cappuccino, all consumed standing at the bar.
Cappuccino: a large cup of hot frothy milk with a dash of coffee and a sprinkling of cocoa powder to taste, is the Italian morning drink par excellence. Although you can order a cappuccino at any time of the day, it’s rare to see Italians downing the creamy concoction much after 10am.
Where to eat
Trattoria, Osteria, Pizzeria, Ristorante. Once upon a time, the difference between the various types of eateries in Italy was clear-cut and categorical.
If you were looking for an informal, family-run restaurant serving generous portions of traditional, home cooking and had no qualms about the eventuality of having to use a W.C comprised of little more than a wash basin and a hole in the floor, then a Trattoria was your best and most economic bet.
If all you wanted was a platter of cold cuts and a glass of wine superior to the usual house plonk served in the trattorias, you would head for an Osteria.
Pizzerias served… pizzas (and were the only establishments authorized to do so).
You’d only go to a ristorante if 1. You were dressed for the occasion, 2. Intended to eat at least 3 if not 4 courses, 3. Had sufficient finances to fund the whole expensive experience.
Times have since changed and the differences between the categories are now far less pronounced. Trattoria’s now boast extensive, well researched wine lists, Osterias are producing increasingly exciting contemporary cuisine, and even the classiest of restaurants will serve a two course meal (and perhaps even pizza!) without the slightest grimace.
When to eat
Although lunch is no longer the lengthy affair it was in the past, for many Italians it is still the most important meal of the day and restaurants often stay open from 12.30 well into the afternoon.
Italians tend to eat dinner significantly later than your average Northern European and, except in major tourist cities, few places will be ready to serve evening meals much before 20.00. As a general rule: the further south you travel, the later restaurants will open…and stay open.
What to eat
Traditionally, meals in Italy start with an antipasto (starter), followed by a primo (usually pasta or rice), followed by a secondo (meat or fish) and conclude with a dolce (dessert).
If you like your meat with two veg, it’s worth remembering that vegetables (including potatoes) almost always need to be ordered separately.
When to tip
Service is already included (under the ‘coperto’), so don’t feel you have to tip. Only tip those who you consider have made an extra special effort to be pleasant or helpful.
Once you’ve paid, feel free to insist on being given a receipt – the restaurateur is obliged to issue you one, by law.
Child friendly?
Although Italians are famous for their unconditional love of children, they are not so famous for the services they provide for them (and their parents). So yes, your little Jack or Polly will be welcomed, cooed at and perhaps even patted on the head by the charming waiter, but that doesn’t necessarily mean the restaurant will have a high chair, baby changing facilities or a kids menu, so if these are important for you… check first!
Strapped for cash?
If you’re on a budget, there are plenty of cheap eating options. From North to South, street food is a long standing Italian tradition and, wherever you are, you’ll always find a stall selling piping hot delicacies, for just a couple of euro: pizza slices, panini, chestnuts, fried rice balls, the list is endless.
P.S. Don’t buy readymade rolls from the bar, rather pop into your local ‘alimentari’ (grocery store) and get them to make you one fresh!
Credit Images: paPisc, jnshaumeyer, pizzodisevo.
